The Return…

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October 4, 2012 by sheacarver

So, check this out: It’s been a year and a half since I posted on this lovely blog.

Wowsers!

I had such good intentions to be on top of things when I started it. Alas, life set in. Writing all day at encore, doing freelance work and reviewing stuff on weekends has just left my time sparse and my mind mush.

In the very long between-time of my posts, a lot has happened. My kitchen was destructed in May of 2012 on a whim and is still undergoing a massive rebuild. Matthew caught me at a vulnerable time when he offered to “just change the tile in the kitchen.” I agreed to an entire redo instead, with walls coming down, sheetrock taken out and new appliances coming in. I seriously have almost killed Matthew about a dozen times during this very grueling, intense process. We’re still in construction hell on October 4th, 2012.

What I’ve learned: I am not meant for restoration and reconstruction house projects. I want it done but I want it done quickly. And when you’re doing it yourself and working and trying to keep life going and taking family trips with kids to Disney and whatnot, things don’t get done quickly. Oh, how it’s tried my patience every minute of every day—even during sleep. Out of it I’ll get a new kitchen, sure; but along with that will come way more gray hairs and wrinkle lines than I wanted going in. However, the upside: All of this will make for really good fodder as I get up and going again on SheaBlog—like the new name?

Yeah, I know really creative, huh…

Destruction of Kitchen 2012 came to a head in July when our lovely house caught fire. Oh man, oh man, oh man! Let me tell you: While settling on the beach on a sunny Sunday afternoon, with crisp blue water beckoning relaxation, the last thing I wanted to hear on the other end of the phone was:  “You need to come home; firemen are at your house.”  Thank goodness for super neighbors who got it under control before more damage was done.

As the story goes, a family member managed to put out his cigarette in extremely close distance to sawdust, which created a spark that ignited the back of our kitchen. Thankfully, no one (furry or otherwise) was hurt and no major interior damage was had, but the aftermath of rebuilding the back of our house has added to the stress tenfold.

And as if we didn’t have enough going on in our lives, Matthew also decided—after doing many stages and interviews for chef positions across town, none of which appealed to him—that he had to start his own business. There was just no way around it. He wants to cook his food his way, and submerge himself slowly into having his own restaurant. And when Matthew sets his mind to something, it becomes a reality.

There’s something to say about tenacity, noh?

As some may remember, Matthew debuted his pop-up restaurant Canapé last year at downtown’s Manna—when he and then-partner Sean Pascarelli served 65 people an 11-course dinner. Well, he has begun doing it yet again solo, every Sunday at San Juan Cafe. Not quite to the 11-course extreme, this go ’round he’s been doing prix-fixes from a menu of about 9-10 items. Of course, diners have the option of ordering a la carte if they wish, too.

Admittedly, this has been the silver lining of our year; though, it’s not without its own set of stressors, believe-you-me. Matthew has changed the menu every week to really test his aptitude and skills along with flavor profiles; it has been really exciting and he’s only in week four. He’s served eel and soba noodles in a spicy kim-chi broth, black chicken (we learned this little guy has way too many bones), and mushroom and onion tartan with whipped goat cheese for dessert. He’s also churned out classic standards like bone marrow and baguette with parsley butter and rabbit confit (of whom a wonderful Frenchman claimed it the best he had since his mother made it for him as a child, which absolutely made Matthew’s night!). Oh, and did I mention pork belly and collards? In fact, pork belly—a pretty standard menu item locally—has been included every week at Canapé. Why shouldn’t it? It’s too divine to pass up.

He had Ramen-noodle Sunday with the most exquisite homemade noodles ever! He made wontons from scratch for spicy pork dumplings, shrimp-stuffed tofu in a yuzu cream sauce and tempura-fried Asian sardines with homemade Thai chile sauce. He also made the best sriracha ever—no bottled stuff! I’m talking real heat and lots of garlic.

He did a New Mexican feast of his favorite comfort foods as an all-you-can-eat, family dining experience. Customers were able to mix and mingle, share stories and their love for food with one another over lamb and goat cheese tamales, chicken and cheese enchiladas, beef tostadas, biscochitos and horchata, pinon coffee, flan and red-chile chocolate cake.

It’s been a blast!

So, as my first blog post goes after my lengthy sojourn, I am dedicating it to the fun of Canapé and beckoning Wilmington diners to give it a taste. You guys have made our year the most pleasurable thus far—and, boy, have we needed it. Matthew loves testing ideas on you—and getting your feedback.

Check out the next two weeks of menus at Canapé (menu change, Oct. 7th: Oysters are two weeks out from being in season, and Matthew couldn’t secure any right now. So, he’s changed that first course option to warm Brussels sprout and pearled onion salad with chorizo). Make reservations to join us (http://canapeilm.com). And if you’re hankering for flavors you can’t get elsewhere, e-mail ilmpop@yahoo.com. We’ll listen and try to please.